Sacro Bosco di Bomarzo

Ever since I first spied the image of the gaping mouth of l’Orco and his eyes, relentlessly staring, demanding you search your soul, I knew that Sacro Bosco was an incredibly special place. For many years I’ve dreamed of and hoped to visit this incredible garden, and finally 2024 was the year.

Sacro Bosco lies nestled in the hills of Lazio, in a remote and unassuming area. The charming village of Bomarzo is perched on a hill directly over the garden, and is crowned by the castle of Orsini, built by one of the most powerful families in central Italy during the medieval period. This fantastical ‘monster garden’ was the brainchild of Pier Orsini, Duke of Bomarzo, who together with his architect dreamed up this bizarre wonderland where he could stroll from his castle directly to this incredible playground of men, monsters and Animalia. 

Commissioned in 1547 this oasis of oddities was more than just a strange sculpture park. It was a philosophical journey which Orsini wanted to take humanity on. A visual, mental and emotional voyage through art and nature, and as a self confessed worshiper of art and nature, who could resist such a proposition?

Upon entering through a crenelated archway that looks as old and craggy as time itself, you are met by two Sphinx brandishing plaques. These whimsical women ponder;
‘Tu ch’entri qua pon mente parte a parte e dimmi poi se tante meraviglie sien fatte per inganno o pur per arte’,
Roughly meaning in English; 'You who enter here, put your mind to it piece by piece and tell me then if these wonders were made as deception or art' a thought provoking entrance, and one which sets the philosophical tone of the garden. 

The dappled shade kindly provided by the foliage is welcome in the afternoon heat, and soon the sound of rustling leaves is overpowered by that of waterfalls and a stream gently flowing secretly out of view. When the garden was first completed the sound of water must have been an ever present companion on any walk in this wonderland. Fountains are at every turn, and the complex of pools and flowing water must have been quite a feat of engineering as well as ingenuity. Now many are dry and mere hints of their former fountain glory, but in some way the imagination of seeing the invisible feels an essential part of this place.

Quickly following the neat paths laid between the trees and shrubs you are greeted by the grotesques which Sacro Bosco is so famed for. A gaping mouth with the weight of the world on his mind 'Proteo Glauco' a Greek god is a small taster of what is to come.
Through the foliage glimpses begin to emerge of what feels like a lost ancient temple. Giant faces peek out, and upon descent to a lower level the battle of Cacus and Hercules is revealed, huge and powerful. These muscular giants tower over you in a tangle of power and strength. Looking at their physique I couldn’t help but think of William Blake’s incredible approach to human physiology, huge chunks of writhing meat fueled by pure emotion. Did Blake ever see images of these creations? I know not. But the similarities in style are undeniable. 

The beauty of this place and it’s character is constantly developing and evolving. Semi ruined tomb like facades fade into nature. With carvings becoming unworked stone, and grotesque faces peering at you from the mossy floor. Flawless integration between human creation and nature only adds to the mystery of this place. What has been manipulated? What has always been? It seems a  blurred line you simply shouldn't try to define. 

The lower level of Sacro Bosco feels like some long forgotten relic, rediscovered crumbling.  Semi-ruinous and long lost, an Indiana Jonesesque wilderness. Then the illusion its gently shattered by Casa Pendente; the leaning house. Any unobservant, uninterested passer by would liken this Torre to Pisa or some other structurally unsound leaning building. Only within seconds it was clear this place was perfectly structurally sound and had been built this way. On a great, disorientating lean. As Iacopo so aptly summed up to me 'Have you been inside?! Its horrible you have to get out as fast as possible!!'
And this set the entire tone for the rest of the gardens journey for me, a total challenge to the senses ...

Things went from calm, quiet wonder to the outright bizarre, fantastical, outrageous as you ascended the next level of this utterly other-worldly place. An incredibly grandiose processional way lined by huge urns guides you down to Neptune, lounging nobally over a moss encrusted mound. A once magnificent fountain now silent and dry. He is flanked on both sides by wonders, peaking through the foliage, temptations pulling you left and right. Statues became more concentrated and compacted. The senses became saturated. Spectacles surrounded me. Elephants. Dragons. Gods. Monsters. A riot of sculpture, unsure which way to turn next and what you would see. The possibilities seem endless, and the wildest thought realised right here in stone.

And finally there he sits, nestled in amongst this carnival of surreal madness, Orco; The Ogre. The Mouth of Hell. His eternal gape has a strangely welcoming quality. His eyes fixed on you, beckoning you to join him in the most intimate way. He stands over the empty space beneath, commanding, dominating, imposing. Orco's inscription today is ambiguois; 'Ogni pensiero vola'; 'All thoughts fly away'. Perhaps a freeing of the mind and ones cares. But his message wasn't always so carefree. The original 'Lasciate ogni pensiero voi ch'entrate'; 'Abandon hope all ye who enter' was a much more ominous greeting.
Its easy to see why Orco has become the unwavering image and symbol of Sacro Bosco. He could produce a hundered different reactions in one hundered different victims. And in that alone he represents the entire purpose for the gardens creation and the psychological journey it was designed to take visitors on. Entirely personal and unique. A voyage into the unknown, on which, hopefully, every lucky participant will enrich or change their world view or life in some way.
It is interesting that to this day the true meaning and origin of the garden is still discussed and debated. Nobody can quite seem to agree on what statues mean, which god or goddess they represent, and ultimately what Orsini wanted to accomplish with the construction of this otherworldly place. Whatever Count Orsini was attempting to create, one things for certain, his legacy is this incredible garden. An eternal paradise of the fantastical and bizarre. Encapsulating so much culture, mythology and mystery its really not easy to wrap your head around exactly what you're seeing. But I strongly suspect, Orsini would be rather happy with that fact. 

The 'Monster Park' was the sort of place I could linger every day of the year and never tire for a moment. It has a quality, a magic, the type which permeates every cell and enchanted me utterly, as an artist and a photographer. But claps of thunder and a rapid descent of threatening storm clouds meant a hasty retreat was required. And I couldn't help but feel Orco had spoken, banishing us and keeping his secrets to himself for another day ...

Death Begets Death - A Fungi Frenzy

Fungi have been one of my great passions in recent years. I have enjoyed photographing fungus whenever I happen upon them and continually challenge myself to improve at identification.
But one thing which I am always striving to do is paint and draw more mushrooms.

One day in mid 2023, in what must have been a particularly surreal day in some strange corner of my mind, I had some rather interesting ideas for a new artwork series.
The series of thumbnail sketches which ensued grew increasingly odd. Things growing out of skulls has long been one of my favourite subjects for art, as pieces such as 'Time Enough For the Earth in the Grave ...' probably suggest.
This time the concept was a little more literal. 

By the time my mind calmed down I was left with a series of frenzied scribblings of skulls and their new found fungal friends. Mushrooms growing from bone in a whole host of weird and wonderful ways. Erupting from eye sockets, clinging to femurs, blossoming from jawbones, creeping across cranium, nourished from fragments.
The whole idea of life springing from death, in the most literal, visually surprising way. 

And yet, the sinister twist of the series is that every fungus featured is poisonous. So the strange, unsettling message is infact 'death begets death'. But the meaning is only fully appreciated if you know your mushrooms of course!

The series is currently ongoing as ideas continue to take shape and a life of their own. And with no shortage of fungi to feature who knows when it will end ...

'Twilight Tales' - The creation of a concept

When Iacopo Meille asked me to collaborate with him on the cover of his first solo EP, the answer was, of course, an enthusiastic 'Yes!'
We began the process with me sending images of various past pieces of artwork to Iacopo for him to judge what kind of cover it might be possible for me to create, and potentially spark some ideas.
Quite quickly he identified a past piece which spoke to him and resonated with the songs and their atmosphere. 

This artwork was 'Strawberries and Cream', which was an interesting piece in particular for Iacopo to feel a connection to. I created the painting in 2020 during the pandemic as a reaction to a personal research project I had begun into English graveyards and their history. During the work visiting hundreds of churchyards and cemeteries I unexpectedly discovered in many of them, growing between the graves were; wild strawberries.

This sweet, unexpected sight was such an interesting juxtaposition between life and death that I went back to the studio and designed 'Strawberries and Cream'.

In a world where at the time in the midst of covid death had become a global fixation (thanks to oversaturation in the media), it was important to remember that life surrounds death.

For me, 'Strawberries and Cream' represented that even in the face of death there was beauty and hope, if you dared to look for it. And of course one of my favourite ideals; that from all death comes life.

At around the same time, over 1000 miles away, Iacopo was having his own creative reaction to the global situation and covids impact on his life. During this isolated time he began writing the songs that would form 'Twilight Tales'.
The idea of these two reactions to such an unprecedented, life changing event coming together was immediately appealing. Both created entirely independently, yet somehow echoed the same sentiments, like some sort of inexplicable fated union.

After working through the composition together and discussing important themes within the songs that should be featured on the cover it was decided that the basis for the artwork would largely be the original composition of  'Strawberries and Cream', but with some additions essential to the subjects of the songs. The theme of mortality in the original painting already captured the spirit of the songs, in particular 'Just Breathe', which with lyrics talking of 'piles of dust' you couldn't get a closer interpretation. But some small changes would truly tailor the painting to the songs in a way which they deserved.

The feather is one of the most important additions, inspired by 'Feather in the Sky'.
While other elements may be more subtle, they're just as integral to the identity of the piece. The Death Head Hawkmoth was chosen for obvious visual and symbolic reasons. The broken glass was requested by Iacopo, relating to 'Have You Read The News?' and was based on ancient Roman glass discovered at an archaeological site at Fiesole. 
Mushrooms were also a specific request, and one I'm always more than happy to feature in any work.
Ensuring all these components worked well together was essential and took considerable planning which was worth every ounce of deliberation.

Adding the title and ensuring it had the right amount of emphasis within the cover was a particularly tricky element. After much sketching and pondering, suddenly the perfect solution presented itself, as is often the case; quite unexpectedly.
Scrolls, parchment and crossed bones were all rejected in place of a single femur. The moment I saw the arrangement sketched out in full I knew it was a perfect fit and enhanced the composition way above 'Strawberries and Cream'.

When painting 'Twilight Tales' I placed particular pressure on myself to ensure that it was a big improvement on 'Strawberries and Cream'. I was driven by the idea of creating an embodiment of the music Iacopo had created, but also to create a superior artwork. I wanted 'Twilight Tales' to better 'Strawberries and Cream' in every way. Better colour representation, more accurate textures, finer details. I have always prided myself as an artist who wants to constantly improve and learn and this was finally my chance to prove myself.

I couldn't be more proud to have collaborated with Iacopo on this project and bringing to life a visual embodiment of his creation has been a total honour. This unlikely union of two different ways of coping with a global pandemic has fluidly formed a cohesive piece of expression which, in my opinion, is far better together than apart.
'Twilight Tales' is now available for streaming on all digital platforms
Spotify.  Youtube, Deezer.

Rollright Stones

For some time now I’ve wanted to visit the Rollright stones in Oxfordshire. Ive watched Documentaries on the stones, read about them and seen lots of photos, but I hadn’t yet had the chance to pay them a visit myself.
Because 2020 has been the strangest of years to say the least, there's lots I was planning to see and do that probably has little to no chance of happening this year.

However, not one to be easily defeated, the Rollright stones are in a reasonably comfortable driving distance to visit in a day (a 200 mile round trip for me). So, I decided seeing the stones was one goal I wasn’t willing to let slip away this year and headed down to Oxfordshire on a sunny August day to wander the Cotswolds and see these magnificent stones.

One of my main concerns (which led to hideous indecision right until the final moment when I jumped in the car) was how busy the stones might be, but my concerns weren’t met with too much horror when I arrived, and found only 4 people around the Kings men. During the few hours I spent at the stones, there was a steady flow of people coming and going. Seemingly most of them just passing by on the busy road running between the King Stone and the rest of the complex. Most appeared to just drop in for a brief look and head off again, it wasn’t until past midday when a huge group arrived with tables and chairs to have a picnic I decided it was time to move on as things were getting too busy for my liking.

The story of the stones echoes that of many stone circles in Britain. Living souls turned to stone in a series of dramatic events. Often dancing and merriment is involved, but on this occasion, a witch and a would be king falling foul of spells and supernatural form a truly fascinating spectacle.
The folklore which has grown up around Bronze Age and Pre-Historic sites is incredibly interesting and truly demonstrates their relevance and importance in society through the ages, even after their original religious and ritualistic meaning had been lost, they maintain a strong position within the community, and although their narrative may have changed over the centuries their significance has not diminished. 

As ever when I visit these sites I find myself filled with wonder. And leave with far more questions than answers. What took place here thousands of years ago? What did this site mean to the people who built it, and to the generations that followed? Bronze age Britain is my great historic passion and has been for many years. Partly because of the different and fascinating world that existed at that time, and partly because we will never know all of the secrets and mysteries of that ancient time. Only echos of this ancient past remain, some above ground, others below. Everything else is lost to time, eternally.